Opening Doorz

By Our Correspondent | Opening Doorz Editorial | April 28, 2019

The first chronograph of classic architecture for men endowed with a movement entirely developed and manufactured by Patek Philippe, appeared successively in yellow, white and rose gold, and in platinum. The manufacture has now redesigned this emblematic model coveted by collectors, endowing it with a new, fully polished white-gold case with round guilloched pushers and three-tier lugs. Its subtle vintage touch is underscored by a cambered sapphire-crystal “box” glass extending across the bezel.

The dial is also sporting an all-new look with a blue background and contrasting white-gold applied Arabic numerals highlighted with a luminescent coating, white-gold baton-style hour and minute hands with pointed tips, also luminescent, a sandblasted central chronograph hand and a white, transfer-printed minute counter with its tachymeter scale–to which must be added the two railway-track scales encircling the small seconds and the chronograph’s 30-minute counter. All has been planned to ensure perfect legibility, whether in daylight or the dark.

The caliber CH 29-535 PS chronograph movement is notable for combining traditional architecture (column wheel, horizontal clutch and manual winding) with six patented innovations. The latter include optimized tooth profiles, improved adjustment of gear penetration, and self-adjusting reset hammers. It also boasts several technical features inspired by the same concern for functionality and performance, such as the instantaneous 30-minute counter. Its beauty and lavish finissage (including bridges with chamfered and polished edges and Geneva stripe decoration) may be admired through a sapphire-crystal case back.

The new creation in white gold is worn on a hand-stitched calfskin strap in a shade of navy blue to match the dial, with a white gold fold-over clasp. It replaces the previous creation in platinum.

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